But England looks lovely, let us hope Wales looks as sunny. Home for lunch.
Wednesday, Cap Finnisterre, off the Isle of White.
Lost on the voyage - my sea legs, my lunch and many photo opportunities. Not a good journey - cruel, cruel sea.
But England looks lovely, let us hope Wales looks as sunny. Home for lunch.
But England looks lovely, let us hope Wales looks as sunny. Home for lunch.
Tuesday, Ferry port, nr Bilboa
Amazing. Blogging from the ferry queue. A slightly scary journey here- who in their right mind would put Santander Ferry on the sign and expect you to know that they meant Santander and also the Bilboa ferry port? Anyway. You can turn around quite easily on these motorways.
So we are here.
So we are here.
Monday, Camping Itxaspe, Deba, nr Bilboa
Our last day here. We drove down to Deba to fill up with fuel, check out the Peage we need to travel on tomorrow and to buy some bread and cakes. Nice town. Big church - a pilgrimage church of course.
Then we did all the packing up jobs before we took our last local walk.
Our last view from RosieMay.
Then we did all the packing up jobs before we took our last local walk.
Our last view from RosieMay.
Sunday, Camping Itxaspe, Deba, nr Bilboa
Calling at reception for advice about walks we found the nice man on Sunday reception unable to speak English but happy to participate in the illusion that our Spanish is reasonably workable. We got our advice, though later didn't follow it. Then a young woman in her pyjamas came in announcing in English that she had left her iPhone in the taxi last night and had got the taxi driver hanging on at the other end of her friend's iPhone, but they couldn't understand each other. Would the receptionist speak to the taxi driver please? With some waving and pointing and a couple of key Spanish vocabulary items like 'left' 'phone' and 'in taxi' and 'speak to taxi man' (luckily the Spanish for 'taxi' is 'taxi') it was all sorted out to everyone's satisfaction. Team work.
We set out for a nice quiet Sunday stroll which turned into a longer walk than we intended. The sun shone and we just kept going, following a nice well kept path with great flowers, views and birds.
At one point this path goes past a house on its way to the sea shore that has at least four tethered dogs, all ready and waiting to warn off any passers-by. On noticing a walker, they all fling themselves to the end of their chains barking and baying like Hounds of the Baskervilles. One in particular has refined his way of operating: after each set of walkers he retreats to his kennel to hide himself, so that he can burst out and frighten and horrify the passers-by even more. The path divides at that house and there is no way mark; walkers go to the left, discover after a few yards that this is the back garden, and retrace their steps in order to go down to the right. This gives the cunning hiding dog two chances to scare the bejasus out of us all.
We ended up at the same spectacular piece of coast as yesterday but by a completely different route. When we got back there was still time to sit in the sun etc. and relax.
We set out for a nice quiet Sunday stroll which turned into a longer walk than we intended. The sun shone and we just kept going, following a nice well kept path with great flowers, views and birds.
At one point this path goes past a house on its way to the sea shore that has at least four tethered dogs, all ready and waiting to warn off any passers-by. On noticing a walker, they all fling themselves to the end of their chains barking and baying like Hounds of the Baskervilles. One in particular has refined his way of operating: after each set of walkers he retreats to his kennel to hide himself, so that he can burst out and frighten and horrify the passers-by even more. The path divides at that house and there is no way mark; walkers go to the left, discover after a few yards that this is the back garden, and retrace their steps in order to go down to the right. This gives the cunning hiding dog two chances to scare the bejasus out of us all.
We ended up at the same spectacular piece of coast as yesterday but by a completely different route. When we got back there was still time to sit in the sun etc. and relax.
Sunday, Camping Itxaspe, Deba, nr Bilboa
Sunday. Not a day of rest for us. A glorious hot sunny day. At last.
We walked down to the sea again but using a different road - the route was part of an ancient pilgrims road.
Wonderful scenery.
Lunch was eaten on some stone steps in the shade of a fig tree.
I have called this one the 'cuddly toy orchid'......
And this ugly duckling that I think is a parasitic plant - no leaves as it lives off another plant - which looks like something out of The Muppets.
We walked down to the sea again but using a different road - the route was part of an ancient pilgrims road.
Wonderful scenery.
Lunch was eaten on some stone steps in the shade of a fig tree.
I have called this one the 'cuddly toy orchid'......
And this ugly duckling that I think is a parasitic plant - no leaves as it lives off another plant - which looks like something out of The Muppets.
Saturday, Camping Itxaspe, Deba, nr Bilboa
Well, as you see from the photos and Chris's comments, this place rocks.
We walked along the coastal path and had some fabulous views of the rocks from a distance and then we descended to sea level and got to see them close to, as well. We sat on some to have our lunch. Chris took many photos of them. The formations were, to be truthful, quite amazing and very beautiful indeed.
We set off minutes after a massive downpour, and it was touch and go whether we would actually do the coast walk out towards the particularly interesting rocky place. We decided to walk in that direction, and within an hour the sun was shining from a clear blue sky. Once again, we carried brollies and macs all the way there and back, though the brollies doubled as walking sticks and gentle wild flower and orchid prodders. It was a steep walk in places. We passed a couple of groups of walkers and a group of cross country cyclists, hurtling down the steep slopes with nothing between them and the high cliffs with rocks below. As we passed, one group of Spanish walkers were just stopping for their lunch, they didn't notice that they were spreading themselves out on a bank of lovely, delicate purple orchids, squashing them flat.
We needed an ice cream on our return to the site, and a long sit down.
After supper we walked along the road to the village. On a telegraph wire was a turtle dove. What luck and what a beautiful bird. The UK population has declined by 93% since the seventies. It is one of our most endangered birds. A very great pity.
We walked along the coastal path and had some fabulous views of the rocks from a distance and then we descended to sea level and got to see them close to, as well. We sat on some to have our lunch. Chris took many photos of them. The formations were, to be truthful, quite amazing and very beautiful indeed.
We set off minutes after a massive downpour, and it was touch and go whether we would actually do the coast walk out towards the particularly interesting rocky place. We decided to walk in that direction, and within an hour the sun was shining from a clear blue sky. Once again, we carried brollies and macs all the way there and back, though the brollies doubled as walking sticks and gentle wild flower and orchid prodders. It was a steep walk in places. We passed a couple of groups of walkers and a group of cross country cyclists, hurtling down the steep slopes with nothing between them and the high cliffs with rocks below. As we passed, one group of Spanish walkers were just stopping for their lunch, they didn't notice that they were spreading themselves out on a bank of lovely, delicate purple orchids, squashing them flat.
We needed an ice cream on our return to the site, and a long sit down.
After supper we walked along the road to the village. On a telegraph wire was a turtle dove. What luck and what a beautiful bird. The UK population has declined by 93% since the seventies. It is one of our most endangered birds. A very great pity.
Saturday, Camping Itxaspe, Deba, nr Bilboa
Anyone who is not interested in geology should look away now.
We are in a Geopark here, because the coastal rocks are absolutely fascinating. Honestly.
We sat here and ate our lunch.
All these rocks and flowers too!
This is part of the view from RosieMay.
We are in a Geopark here, because the coastal rocks are absolutely fascinating. Honestly.
We sat here and ate our lunch.
All these rocks and flowers too!
This is part of the view from RosieMay.
Friday, Camping Itxaspe, Deba, nr Bilboa
Our driving day took us through a lot of different types of landscapes, with interesting geology and varieties of land use to look at as we passed through.
We stopped for a final supermarket session and enjoyed looking at a white stork high-rise apartment block, which was a pylon like structure next to the car park with four or five untidy nests, made of piles of sticks, crammed into the steel work on several levels. Two or three had storks in residence as we looked and we could see the young ones craning their necks asking for food.
As we travelled further West the road and other signs changed from Spanish to yet another language, the language of the Basque countries. The Basque Lands are called Euskadi. The Basques are a very ancient people with a language that is the oldest in Europe, according to the book we have, apparently, even older than Welsh. It has no known relatives. Genetically, ethnic Basques have uniquely persistent European Paleolithic DNA markers - impressively ancient.
Anyway, the site at Itxaspe (note Basque-ness of name) has great views over the sea and the coastal path walks look like being spectacular. We will walk tomorrow.
We stopped for a final supermarket session and enjoyed looking at a white stork high-rise apartment block, which was a pylon like structure next to the car park with four or five untidy nests, made of piles of sticks, crammed into the steel work on several levels. Two or three had storks in residence as we looked and we could see the young ones craning their necks asking for food.
As we travelled further West the road and other signs changed from Spanish to yet another language, the language of the Basque countries. The Basque Lands are called Euskadi. The Basques are a very ancient people with a language that is the oldest in Europe, according to the book we have, apparently, even older than Welsh. It has no known relatives. Genetically, ethnic Basques have uniquely persistent European Paleolithic DNA markers - impressively ancient.
Anyway, the site at Itxaspe (note Basque-ness of name) has great views over the sea and the coastal path walks look like being spectacular. We will walk tomorrow.
Friday, Camping Itxaspe, Deba, nr Bilboa
A long drive from the Pyrennees to the sea - mainly because we took the scenic route through the Bardenas Reales National Park.
We said goodby to the mountains...
Our coffee break looked out on flat lands...
Our lunch break looked over fields that were being flooded prior to planting...
This is what the landscape looks like in the Bardenas...
Shopping in a big town led to close encounters with storks..
And this little gem was in one of our stopping places...
And this is us on our pitch overlooking the sea...
We said goodby to the mountains...
Our coffee break looked out on flat lands...
Our lunch break looked over fields that were being flooded prior to planting...
This is what the landscape looks like in the Bardenas...
Shopping in a big town led to close encounters with storks..
And this little gem was in one of our stopping places...
And this is us on our pitch overlooking the sea...
Location:Carretera Nacional 634,Deba,Spain
Thursday, Camping Gavin, Biescas, Valle de Tena, Pyrenees.
The weather forecast was pretty bad for this afternoon so we got up early to make the best of the bright sunny morning. The aim was to drive back up to the high mountains at the border with France to get the photographs that we didn't get, because of mist and rain, when we were up there the day before. We drove right up to the top and found mist and rain at the border once more, so came back down again out of the mist, stopping half way to have breakfast in the van, surrounded by lovely mountain views. Also a brief walk searching for more orchids; one new one was found. The rain and mist stayed where it was, high up and out of sight. And it has been bright and sunny ever since.
We had a good long walk when we got back (with a brolly and mac in my rucksack, thank you, weather forecasters) under clear blue skies with no clouds in sight. It was windy, so not too hot. The walk took us out from the site to the river that flows though the valley, and along paths leading through farmland. Farming used to be the main source of income here but now very few people farm for a living. There are only one or two families who have cattle and sheep still. We saw quite a number of horses, and one quite large and modern enterprise, also with horses, which we thought was a stud.
We took our lunch with us and had a picnic right by the river, sitting on fairly uncomfortable river bank boulders. Lots of chaffinches kept us company, and one robin. Later Chris found a picnic site with benches and tables only yards from where we were. It's surprising how often we stop in some ideal spot only to find an even more ideal spot just round the corner. However, it has to be said, you couldn't see the river nearly so well from the picnic tables and we would have missed the chaffinches darting out over the water to nab flies.
Dinner is in the restaurant tonight, at eight o'clock. The Spanish eat so late! Other Brits are booked in and we have all booked for eight, the earliest possible time. We have passed the time since getting back from our windy walk by dozing in our comfy chairs in the sunshine and reading our books. I think this may be what normal people do on holiday but I am not sure.
Thursday, Camping Gavin, Biescas, Valle de Tena, Pyrenees.
Our last day in the mountains so we headed up the valley and ate breakfast among the peaks.
A walk in search of orchids...
Then back to the site to make lunch and a walk down from the site, along a river and back through scrub and farmland.
If you could see our site in this photo it would be in the bottom left corner.
A walk in search of orchids...
Then back to the site to make lunch and a walk down from the site, along a river and back through scrub and farmland.
If you could see our site in this photo it would be in the bottom left corner.
Wednesday, Camping Gavin, Biescas, Valle de Tena, Pyrenees.
As Chris says, it is Helen's birthday, and we wish her Happy Birthday and many happy returns of the day.
We had a couple of very good walks today. The Monasterio of Saint Elena was high on the hillside that we walked to find the Dolmen; we didn't visit it but sent a goodwill prayer for the Saint to watch out for all her namesakes. We looked up at fortifications left over from the Spanish Civil War which were interesting, as was the Dolmen, for different reasons.
The walk to the Dolmen was interesting not because we missed it the first time of passing, but because it was partly on a level track specially made for people with disabilities. Not only was it wheelchair accessible, but there were Braille notices at intervals all along, and notes explaining what we were looking at. The constructors of the walk had made sure that the walk took people past interesting sounds like the waterfall next to the walkway, and had at one point attached little ropes to a couple of apple blossom branches so these could be pulled down to child or wheelchair level to be smelt and touched. There were lots of rest places with seats and picnic tables. All this, miles from anywhere, was very impressive.
The site seems to have lots of Brits this evening. It is strange to hear English spoken, other than by us.
The sun is shining this evening, and some people are sitting out. It is not exactly hot, or even particularly warm, but it is lovely to see blue sky and hear the wind rustling in the trees roundabout. It is a very leafy site.
We had a couple of very good walks today. The Monasterio of Saint Elena was high on the hillside that we walked to find the Dolmen; we didn't visit it but sent a goodwill prayer for the Saint to watch out for all her namesakes. We looked up at fortifications left over from the Spanish Civil War which were interesting, as was the Dolmen, for different reasons.
The walk to the Dolmen was interesting not because we missed it the first time of passing, but because it was partly on a level track specially made for people with disabilities. Not only was it wheelchair accessible, but there were Braille notices at intervals all along, and notes explaining what we were looking at. The constructors of the walk had made sure that the walk took people past interesting sounds like the waterfall next to the walkway, and had at one point attached little ropes to a couple of apple blossom branches so these could be pulled down to child or wheelchair level to be smelt and touched. There were lots of rest places with seats and picnic tables. All this, miles from anywhere, was very impressive.
The site seems to have lots of Brits this evening. It is strange to hear English spoken, other than by us.
The sun is shining this evening, and some people are sitting out. It is not exactly hot, or even particularly warm, but it is lovely to see blue sky and hear the wind rustling in the trees roundabout. It is a very leafy site.
Wednesday, Camping Gavin, Biescas, Valle de Tena, Pyrenees.
Today we drove up the valley to the the French border. But first we attempted to find the Dolmen of Santa Elena. We did eventually find it after a pleasant woodland walk.
We walked over the bridge to start our walk.
We then drove up the valley, visiting two little villages on the way. In my defence I have to say that on the tourist map it was shown as a red road - as was the main road to the border. See if you can find a road between Hoz de Jaca and Pueyo de Jaca. There is one but it is very tiny. Not ideal for a motorhome. Sorry, I didn't fancy stopping to take photos.
We did get to the border and this was the view.
In September we were seeing the same border crossing from the other side. We did find some squashed and frozen orchids but also gentians.
Then we drove back to the same parking spot and walked a footpath in the other direction, up a steep path through woodland. We got as far as this waterfall then turned back.
And this is the Hermita de Santa Helena which is very appropriate on Helen's birthday.
P.s. we have just met our first Welsh people - they saw our number plate so came and said Shwd mae. But they are non-Welsh speakers from Bridgend so couldn't help Kate with her homework.
Pps. Just walking up to the reception to blog and we had a close encounter with a hoopoe - and my camera is in the van!
We walked over the bridge to start our walk.
We then drove up the valley, visiting two little villages on the way. In my defence I have to say that on the tourist map it was shown as a red road - as was the main road to the border. See if you can find a road between Hoz de Jaca and Pueyo de Jaca. There is one but it is very tiny. Not ideal for a motorhome. Sorry, I didn't fancy stopping to take photos.
We did get to the border and this was the view.
In September we were seeing the same border crossing from the other side. We did find some squashed and frozen orchids but also gentians.
Then we drove back to the same parking spot and walked a footpath in the other direction, up a steep path through woodland. We got as far as this waterfall then turned back.
And this is the Hermita de Santa Helena which is very appropriate on Helen's birthday.
P.s. we have just met our first Welsh people - they saw our number plate so came and said Shwd mae. But they are non-Welsh speakers from Bridgend so couldn't help Kate with her homework.
Pps. Just walking up to the reception to blog and we had a close encounter with a hoopoe - and my camera is in the van!
Tuesday, Camping Gavin, Biescas, Valle de Tena, Pyrenees.
Our morning coffee, in a small place that had been filled with local people when we passed earlier, was excellent. We asked for a piece of chocolate brownie cake each, since we had spent the previous couple of hours hard at work in appreciating the art and history of the Cathedral. The cake arrived shortly after the coffee, having been transformed from the plain brownie on display to another work of art. It, and the plate, had been swirled across with artistic lines of white, caramel and chocolate. The old fashioned cake fork completed the picture.
Two biker Brits came in as we were enjoying this, so we said how good the cakes were, and sure enough, they had the cheesecake, similarly presented.
We walked around a hexagonal castle beside the town (which was closed on Tuesdays so we couldn't get in) and found that the deep sided grassy ditch all around it was occupied by a small herd of deer. A red kite flew over, hopefully, but all the deer were alive and well. It would have enjoyed the tiny white dog that was being walked around the castle, as a small snack. It was the smallest dog ever and so fluffy that it looked as if it was completely round. It ran to greet a large Labrador, which could easily have used it as a football.
Our drive back took us past some fields that were being mown for hay. The tractor doing the mowing was completely surrounded by swallows, just as gulls follow ploughs back home. There must have been well over 50 birds. Another red kite joined them but drifted off quickly.
We will try for a walk now, it is nearly eight o'clock but the sun is shining and Chris may get some more good photos.
Two biker Brits came in as we were enjoying this, so we said how good the cakes were, and sure enough, they had the cheesecake, similarly presented.
We walked around a hexagonal castle beside the town (which was closed on Tuesdays so we couldn't get in) and found that the deep sided grassy ditch all around it was occupied by a small herd of deer. A red kite flew over, hopefully, but all the deer were alive and well. It would have enjoyed the tiny white dog that was being walked around the castle, as a small snack. It was the smallest dog ever and so fluffy that it looked as if it was completely round. It ran to greet a large Labrador, which could easily have used it as a football.
Our drive back took us past some fields that were being mown for hay. The tractor doing the mowing was completely surrounded by swallows, just as gulls follow ploughs back home. There must have been well over 50 birds. Another red kite joined them but drifted off quickly.
We will try for a walk now, it is nearly eight o'clock but the sun is shining and Chris may get some more good photos.
Tuesday, Camping Gavin, Biescas, Valle de Tena, Pyrenees.
A better day today - the view as I walked down from reception with bread and croissants....
We drove to Jaca today to see the 10C Cathedral. Very nice. Austere stonework but fine altarpieces.
Also a collection of murals 'rescued' from small churches around the area.
Including this whole chapel that was removed, restored and rebuilt in the museum.
A walk around the fortress and a wander through the streets looking for doors.
Then up into the hills on minor roads looking for birds and flowers.
And this tiny beauty - about three inches tall.
We drove to Jaca today to see the 10C Cathedral. Very nice. Austere stonework but fine altarpieces.
Also a collection of murals 'rescued' from small churches around the area.
Including this whole chapel that was removed, restored and rebuilt in the museum.
A walk around the fortress and a wander through the streets looking for doors.
Then up into the hills on minor roads looking for birds and flowers.
And this tiny beauty - about three inches tall.
Monday, Camping Gavin, Biescas, Valle de Tena, Pyrenees.
Camping Gavin is another really nice site, peaceful and green, with great views of the mountains. We are about 30 kilometres from the French border. There are Neolithic settlements nearby, and some dolmens, which we plan to see.
The loos are immaculate and are likely to be kept so; a sign in the ladies says 'not to put 'intimate wipes' into the loos or there is a risk of shooting'. A Google translation perhaps, but what word was translated - blocking up, agglomeration (see previous posts), flooding? Surely shooting is a bit harsh.
We have overpaid by 36 euros because there wasn't anywhere on the website that asked if we had an ACSI card, which gives discounts. We have an ACSI card. So we may spend our overpayment at the restaurant, because 36 euros worth is more croissants than Chris can eat.
It is raining so it will be a good time for a restful evening, with JK Rowling, in my case, on Kindle, 'The Casual Vacancy'. Very, very good; not a cheery read, but exceptional well written and tackling some gutsy issues. Or, with Sue Townsend's excellent 'The Woman who Went to Bed for a Year', an audio book. Or, also on Kindle, and judged by Guardian Bookclub readers, on Twitter, to be very funny indeed, but not yet started by me, Jonas Jonassen's 'The Hundred Year Old Man who Climbed out of the Window and Disappeared'
We are going now, to see what the little on site supermarket is like, and to see how we get wifi. We will unpack the umbrellas first.
The loos are immaculate and are likely to be kept so; a sign in the ladies says 'not to put 'intimate wipes' into the loos or there is a risk of shooting'. A Google translation perhaps, but what word was translated - blocking up, agglomeration (see previous posts), flooding? Surely shooting is a bit harsh.
We have overpaid by 36 euros because there wasn't anywhere on the website that asked if we had an ACSI card, which gives discounts. We have an ACSI card. So we may spend our overpayment at the restaurant, because 36 euros worth is more croissants than Chris can eat.
It is raining so it will be a good time for a restful evening, with JK Rowling, in my case, on Kindle, 'The Casual Vacancy'. Very, very good; not a cheery read, but exceptional well written and tackling some gutsy issues. Or, with Sue Townsend's excellent 'The Woman who Went to Bed for a Year', an audio book. Or, also on Kindle, and judged by Guardian Bookclub readers, on Twitter, to be very funny indeed, but not yet started by me, Jonas Jonassen's 'The Hundred Year Old Man who Climbed out of the Window and Disappeared'
We are going now, to see what the little on site supermarket is like, and to see how we get wifi. We will unpack the umbrellas first.
Monday, Camping Gavin, Biescas, Valle de Tena, Pyrenees.
A short drive (100 kilometers) through the mountains to our next stop. Up some scary hillsides and through an amazing gorge (desafiladero) but no stopping places on our side of the road so no photos. When we stopped for a break and saw this road zig zagging up the mountainside we laughed at the fools who might drive it - only to find ourselves on it a little later!
Other views along the way...
Lunch stop...
You can see why the reservoirs are a funny colour when you see the rivers!
Our first interesting butterfly....
And who would plant these two colours next to each other?
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